글 / 최석영 영상작가, 사이버아트센터 사이버교수 팁엔테크에서 애프터이펙트 5.5 동영상 강의중 artsuk@freechal.com 모션 그래픽의 이해와 방향 이번 호에서는 모션 그래픽 연재를 시작하기 전에 모션 그래픽에 관한 이해와 그 방향성에 대해 간략히 소개하기로 하겠다. 모션 그래픽은 초반에 개념적 이해가 없이는 접근하기 어려운 작업이다. 기존의 2차원 위주의 작업을 주로 하던 디자이너가 3차원 디자인 작업까지 그 영역을 확대했을 때 시간과 공간을 조화롭게 매치하지 못하여 작업 전체를 망칠 수 있다. 예를 들어 일러스트레이터를 이용해 주로 작업했던 디자이너에게 애니메이션을 부 탁할 경우 모션에 대한 이해가 없는 디자이너라면 애니메이션 작업은 필시 실패할 확률 이 크다. 모션 그래픽을 이해하기 위해서는 움직임(모션)의 이해가 필수적이다. 이 움직임은 또한 방향성을 가지고 있어야 한다. 움직임의 방향성에 따라 모션 그래픽이 주는 느낌은 천차만별로 달라질 수 있기 때문이다. 모션 그래픽에 대한 많은 원론적 정의가 있겠지만 필자에게 있어 모션 그래픽이란 그래픽 작업에 생명력과 향기를 넣는 작업이라고 말해주고 싶다. 여기에서 생명력 은 Time이라 말할 수 있으며, 향기는 사운드를 의미한다. 간혹 모션 그래픽의 비주얼에 매료되어 사운드를 너무 쉽게 작업하는 경우가 있다. 예를 들어 전체 작업 시간이 1시간이라고 한다면 50분은 비주얼 작업에, 10분은 사운드 작업에 할애한다. 하지만 모션 그래픽은 비주얼과 사운드가 서로 조화롭게 결합해야지만 그 감동을 몇 배로 증폭시킬 수 있기 때문에 작업을 할 때 비슷한 비중의 시간을 투자해야 한다.
로고에 비주얼한 역동성을 실어 모션 그래픽을 표현한 예
1. 모션 그래픽의 개념 모션 그래픽 작업을 보다 쉽게 이해하기 위해 요리에 비유해 보면 다음과 같이 비유될 수 있다. 그래픽 작업물을 용기에 넣고 시간(Time)이라는 불로 가열하여 적당한 온도라는 디자인으로 맛있는 요리를 만드는 것과 같다.
모션 그래픽의 개념도
2. 시간(Time) Frame의 이해 연속적으로 진행되는 현상들의 표현은 영화의 발명으로 비약적으로 발전했다. 그 원리는 인간의 신체 즉 눈의 잔상효과(Persistence of vision)를 이용하여 1초를 24프레임으로 나누어 정지된 이미지를 연속적으로 보여 주는 것이다. Time에서는 프레임의 이해가 가장 중요하다. Time은 “프레임을 어떻게 표현 할 것인가?”와 “프레임에 어떤 변화를 넣을 것인가?”로 구분될 수 있다. 쉬운 예로 불을 강하게 하여 빨리 온도를 높일 것인가(Duration값을 증가시킬 것인가) 또는 불을 점층적으로 강하게 할 것인가(Easy Ease를 사용할 것인가) 등으로 생각해 볼 수 있다. 즉, 요리에서 불이 있어야 조리가 가능한 것과 마찬가지로 모션 그래픽에서 Time이 없다면 모션 그래픽은 될 수 없다.
Frame rate의 이해 보통 웹과 영상에서의 모션 그래픽의 1초당 Frame rate는 다음과 같다. - 웹에서의 모션 그래픽 : 12 frame - 영상에서의 모션 그래픽 :24 frame, 25frame, 29.97 frame
웹에서의 초당 Frame 수는 웹 상에서 데이터를 전송할 수 있는 기술과 관련이 있다. 인터넷의 데이터 전송 속도의 발전은 웹에서 표현될 수 있는 모션 그래픽의 확장성을 의미한다. 보다 자연스러운 동작이나 현실감 있는 사운드 및 리얼한 캐릭터의 등장이 가능해 질 것이다.
영상에서의 모션 그래픽의 초당 frame 수는 최종 출력물과 비디오 포맷방식에 의해 결정된다. - Film :24 fps(영화작업에 쓰임) - NTSC : 29.97 fps(미국 및 한국에서 쓰는 비디오 방식) - Pal : 25 fps(유럽에서 쓰는 비디오 방식) *fps(frame per second)
Frame rate를 강조하는 이유는 Frame rate를 이용하며 많은 모션 그래픽의 시간에 대한 테크닉을 구사할 수 있기 때문이다.
적은 수의 Frame으로 구현된 모션 그래픽의 예
3. Key frame의 이해 모션 그래픽 작업에서 시간을 관리하는 타임라인 창은 매우 중요한 부분을 차지한 다. 특정시간대의 변화값이 표기되는 Key frame을 관리 할 수 있기 때문이다. 모든 애니메이션 프로그램은 두 개 이상의 키프레임을 만들어 첫 프레임과 마지막 프레임 사이에 보간법을 적용하여 컴퓨터가 중간 프레임을 자동으로 만들어 주는 원리를 이용한다. 그렇기 때문에 플래시나 애프터이펙트 같은 프로그램에서 타임라 인이 중요한 부분을 차지하는 것이다. 물론 frame by frame 기법으로 각 프레임마다 키프레임을 만들어 작업할 수 있다. 현재는 더욱 발전하여 스크립트 형식의 프로그램 명령문을 만들거나 애니메이션 값에 수학적 수치를 적용하는 방법도 쓰이고 있다.
웹 모션 그래픽에 주로 쓰이는 플래시의 타임라인
영상 모션 그래픽에 주로 쓰이는 애프터이팩트의 타임라인
4. 그래픽 작업 Footage의 이해 Footage는 그래픽 결과물 또는 작업 소스를 의미하는 것으로 이미지, 동영상, 시퀀스, 사운드 소스 등이 있다. 좋은 재료가 좋은 요리의 첫번째 요건이라고 하면 모션 그래픽에서도 Footage가 좋아야 퀄리티가 높은 작품이 나올 수 있다. 플래시에서도 미리 소스를 만들어 놓고 라이브러리에 저장해서 사용하듯이 애프터 이펙트에서도 영상 소스를 미리 만들어 두었다가 필요할 때마다 변형하여 작업하는 경우가 많 다.
애프터이펙트의 Footage 관리 창
모션 그래픽 Footage 작업 1) 백그라운드 작업 백그라운드 작업은 영화 타이틀이나 인트로 등의 모션 그래픽 작업에서 높은 퀄리티 를 내기 위해서 필수적이다. 대부분 포토샵 및 일러스트레이터, 실사 소스, 3D 애니메이션 프로그램, 파티클 프로그램 등에서 만들어진다. 작업시 염두해야 할 부분은 z값을 인식시키는 코드를 심을 수 있어야 한다는 점이다. 즉 백그라운드는 마치 카메라와 라이트가 적용된 듯이 표현하여 공간감을 깊이 있게 나타내줘야만 메인 캐릭터를 받쳐주는 역할을 충실히 할 수 있다.
MTV 작품-백그라운드 작업의 예
2) 2D 작업 모션 그래픽에서 2D 작업은 주로 타이포그래피의 제작이다. 타이포그래피는 모든 디자인의 기본이 되는 작업으로 특히 모션 그래픽에서는 모션타입이라는 움직이는 타이포그래피를 이해하는 것이 관건이다. 이 부분은 연재를 통해 차차 설명하기로 하겠다.
2D를 활용한 모션 그래픽의 예
3) 3D 작업 웹 모션 그래픽 작업에서는 3D 작업이 점차 그 중요성을 더해가고 있다. 이 작업은 이미 예견되었던 것으로 영상에서 표현되는 모션 그래픽 작업에는 초창기부 터 시도되었지만 3D 프로그램의 등장으로 비약적으로 발전한 부분이기도 하다. “인간은 공간을 인식하고 그 공간 안에서 안위하고 싶어한다”는 주장처럼 인간 내면적 정서에는 공간감에 대한 인식이 내재되어 있으며, 공간감에 대한 인식은 2D 작업보다 비주얼한 액션을 만들어 낼 수 있다.
3D를 활용한 모션 그래픽의 예
4) 사운드 작업 사운드 작업은 모션 그래픽 작업 중에서 미리 진행되는 방식을 선택하기 바란다. 사운드 작업을 선행했을 때의 장점은 이펙트 및 편집의 컷하는 부분을 사운드와 맞추어 할 수 있다는 점이다. 물론 부분부분 들어가는 사운드 이펙트에서는 사운드 를 비주얼 소스에 맞추어 작업하는 것이 편하지만 배경음악에서는 미리 사운드의 특정 부분을 체크하여 비주얼 소스를 맞추면 자연스런 편집이 될 수 있다. 예를 들어 배경음악에서 드럼이 시작되는 부분에 마커(애프터이펙트에서 타임라인 에 사운드 소스를 부분부분 체크하는 방법)를 찍고, 그 부분에 편집 및 이펙트를 적용하면 자연스럽게 사운드와 비주얼이 결합된다. 5. 디자인 가장 중요한 작업이다. 아무리 좋은 재료라도 훌륭한 요리사가 없으면 요리를 할 수 없기 때문이다. 요리사가 요리의 온도를 재고, 맛을 보고, 서로 섞는 작업을 디자이너가 디자인을 하는 작업과 연관시켜 이해하기 바란다. 요리사가 요리 기술이 없다면 소용없듯이 모션 그래픽의 여러 작업에서 기본적으 로 필요한 디자인 기술은 다음과 같다. 1. 타이포그래피의 이해 2. 애니메이션의 이해 3. 카메라와 라이트의 이해 4. 영상제작 과정의 이해 5. 비주얼이펙트의 이해 모션 그래픽은 디자인의 종합적 작업이기 때문에 기본이 되는 디자인 개념과 총체 적 기술이 필요한 분야이다. 단순히 2D 작업이나 3D 작업을 잘 한다고 좋은 모션 그래픽 작품이 나오는 것이 아니고, 타이포그래피 연구, 영상 연구, 커뮤니케이 션 연구 등 종합적인 연구를 통해야만 좋은 모션 그래픽을 디자인할 수 있다. 모션 그래퍼로 실력을 늘리는 방법 모션 그래퍼로 실력을 늘리는 방법은 많이 보고, 많이 만드는 방법밖에는 없다. 첫번째로 본다는 것은 보여지는 대상을 인식하고 본다는 뜻이 내포되어 있다. 모션 그래픽의 컨셉은 무엇이며, 공간을 어떻게 활용했는지, 타이포그래피는 어떻게 이용했는지 등을 분석하며 보는 자세가 필요하다. 분석을 할 때는 체크리스트를 만들어 활용하면 자신의 작품을 만들 때 많은 도움이 된다. 체크리스트는 항목을 세분화할수록 더욱 효과적이다.
체 크리스트
내 용
체 크 결과
적용된 아이디어
활용 가능한 내용 체크
객관적채점
컨셉의 전달
비주얼 효과
전체적 완성도
무빙타입의 가독성
비주얼과 사운드의 조화
2D를 활용한 모션 그래픽의 예
두번째로 많이 만든다는 것은 자신의 창의적인 작품일 수도 있지만 초반에는 타인 의 작품 파일을 받아 분석하고 똑같이 한번 만들어 보는 것이 좋다. fla(aep)로 저장된 파일을 열어 직접 분석하면 여러 가지 정보를 알 수 있으며, 때로는 결과물만 가지고 분석을 하여 스스로 과정을 새로 만들어 제작해 보면 자신만의 노하우를 쌓을 수 있는 좋은 방법이 될 수 있다. 이 시기가 어느정도 지나면 자신만의 컨셉으로 기존 작품을 재구성하여 새로운 작품을 만들어 보는 것이다. 이 과정에서 가장 중요한 것은 절대 교만하지 말라는 것이다. 교만은 창작의 아이디어와 영감까지도 앗아갈 수 있기 때문이다. 늘 열려진 시각을 가지고 타인의 작품과 자신의 작품을 냉철히 분석할 수 있어야만 진정한 모션 그래퍼가 될 수 있을 것이다.
마치며 이번 호에서는 모션 그래픽의 개념과 전반적인 제작 흐름에 대해서 살펴 보았다. 다음 호에서는 직접 예제를 제작해 보면서 모션 그래픽에 대해 구체적으로 알아 보도록 하겠다. 글에 대한 문의나 궁금한 사항은 필자의 이메일 (artsuk@freechal.com)로 문의바란다.
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Carbon is so light and tough that Boeing picked it for their 787 "Dreamliner" jet. It's over 80% carbon, including the fuselage, which seats 300-plus passengers. And, perhaps the ultimate carbon creation ever, is the 197-foot-wide wing. With the Dreamliner's 360,000-pound takeoff weight and Mach 0.85 cruising speed, this amazing and gossamer carbon structure must withstand a lift force of some 450,000 pounds.
Yet, even with incredible strength and toughness like this, with a single indiscriminate act like clamping your carbon wonder wrong in your repair stand, over torquing with an Allen wrench, or baking it in the back of your car for hours in the summer sun, you can do some serious damage.
It's possible because carbon has very different qualities than steel, aluminum and titanium, which you've probably ridden before. Unlike these metals, carbon is a synthetic composite material comprised of fibers soaked in epoxy resin and then compressed, heated and cured. Essentially, your carbon jewel is made up of a super-strong fabric, which requires a little new know-how on your part. The foremost being that while metal shows signs of damage, typically bends, dents or bulges, carbon may appear normal, yet, if compromised enough, even though you can't see the defect, the component could fail without warning. Another issue is notch sensitivity, which means that deep cuts, gouges or scratches can cause carbon to break and should be inspected by a pro immediately (and avoided!).
Now that we've got your attention, there's really no reason for concern as long as you treat your carbon gear correctly. To help, we asked our mechanics for their best tips, picked the brains of every industry carbon guru we know, and culled information from the major carbon bike and component leaders' websites to bring you this guide to caring for and maintaining your carbon bicycles and components.
Reading, understanding and following the guidelines, instructions and recommendations here will greatly increase the chances that you never have any problems. And, if you ever have a question or are unsure how to proceed, please contact us first, and we'll be happy to help!
There's a lot to know about carbon and many insider tips and tricks. So, for easy navigation, we've organized our guide into sections covering the issues, and tips for the individual components of a bicycle, too — frame, fork, handlebars, seatposts, etc. Use the links below to quickly jump to any section. First, be sure to read the Basic Carbon Care section as it explains things pertinent to all carbon bicycles and components.
Get, Read, and Know your Owner's Manual All carbon bicycles and components include either print owner's manuals or digital versions you can read and download on the company's website. Before doing any service on your bicycle or components, you must thoroughly read and understand the manual. This is where you'll find the proper torque settings, any special tools or techniques that are required, warranty specifics, contact information and more. We can answer and advise about the carbon products that we support, however, the only way to be certain that you have the most up-to-date and accurate information about your specific item is to own, read and understand its specific owner's manual.
Everyday Care Some simple steps can ensure that your carbon bicycle becomes an heirloom. One of the easiest is parking it safely. Never lean it in such a way that it can roll and fall on its side or slam into anything. For example, don't rest the seat or frame against a pole and think it's safe (no matter how gently you placed it there), because the bike might move letting the frame crash against the pole, which could easily damage it. Or, the handlebars might swing around all the way and smack into the top tube. To prevent these risks lay the bike down in a safe place when you park it or at least ensure that it's resting on a level surface and leaning against a wall. Also, some companies recommend avoiding exposing your bicycle and components to high temperatures such as leaving them inside a parked car in the sun or storing them next to heat sources or radiators. Similarly, if you live by an ocean where there's lots of salt in the air, or if you're a person who sweats excessively, you should take extra care to clean and rinse the salt off your bicycle and components to protect them from any possible corrosion of the metal parts.
Crash and Wear-and-Tear Inspections If you crash or abuse your bike, or forget that it's on your roof rack and ram it into your garage, look for signs of damage, and have them checked out. Remember that damage may not be visible to the untrained eye. We're always happy to inspect and advise so bring it by the shop. And, do not ride until you're sure the bike/component is safe. Even if you never crash, you should frequently inspect your carbon bicycle and components for any gouges, deep scratches, cracks, loose fibers or other surface cracks and stop riding until you fix the problem.
Tips: When cleaning, if your rag snags on something, it could be a sign of damage. Also carefully listen for uncommon sounds when riding, such as creaking or cracking or popping, which could mean there's a problem. And, if you suddenly find that your bike isn't shifting or braking properly, or it's not handling the same, stop and check the bike carefully. Remember, we're always happy to help. Just bring your bike by the shop. Also, while you may have heard that carbon can't be repaired, it actually can in many cases.
Repair Stands The mechanical clamping action of repair stands concentrates powerful loads in a small area so you should always clamp your carbon bicycle safely. Never clamp the frame. Instead, if you have a round aluminum seatpost, clamp that. If your seatpost is carbon, the safest thing to do is to purchase an inexpensive aluminum seatpost that's the same diameter as your post and then use it for clamping when you work on your bike. You can hold the bike by the carbon post if it's round and you clamp it gently, but you may scratch it unless you're very careful and the jaws of the repair stand clamp are safe (keep them clean of dirt and wrap a piece of wax paper around the seatpost to help prevent scratches).
Working On Your Bike Here's where we see a lot of problems. Avoid them and protect your machine by being sure to read and understand the owner's manual for your bicycle and components before doing any work. Even as seemingly straightforward an issue as whether or not to grease components depends on the manufacturer's recommendations. Some say to never grease, some call for it on certain parts, and some recommend special greases made for carbon components.
Over torquing is probably the biggest cause of cracks that we see in carbon products. And, it's much harder to determine the torque on a bolt by feel with carbon than it is with aluminum. The best way to avoid problems and do the job correctly is by getting a torque wrench and always using it and the company's torque chart when working on your bike. Here's some excellent information on proper tightening and torque specifications from our friends at Park Tool USA.
Another important step is to check parts during installation and assembly to ensure that there are no burs, rough spots, dirt or metal shards that could cut into and harm the carbon when the components are assembled and tightened. The surfaces must be smooth or you should smooth them with fine sandpaper or by cleaning.
You also need to work differently than you may be used to. For example, you may have gotten in the habit of putting a part on and then twisting it to see if it's tight and then tightening the bolt a little more if the part needs it. But, this is a recipe for disaster with carbon because by twisting/turning the part, you can cut into the carbon damaging it! With carbon you want to align parts once and then tighten completely. Or, if you need to fine-tune an adjustment, you should loosen fully, reset the part and tighten fully.
Another metal-bicycle technique that won't work on carbon is trying to change the frame spacing. It's set to accept modern wheels perfectly. Never try to stretch or compress your frame more than 2mm or you may damage the frame or dropouts (it's impossible to bend carbon frames). Also, it may seem obvious but we've seen just about everything and we'd like to emphasize that you should never drill holes in your frame for any reason, no matter how logical it may seem at the time. If you're planning on doing so please contact us first so we can listen and explain.
Tip: If you need to size your carbon handlebars (and the manual okays it), or cut your new fork to size, we recommend using a carbon-specific hacksaw blade. These blades essentially "sand" through the carbon instead of tearing through with teeth, which tend to fray and splinter the fibers in the composite. It’s also good practice to wrap the carbon with tape before cutting, though this is less necessary when using a carbon-specific blade.
Car Racks Car racks that clamp to the frame tubes should not be used because of the enormous loads concentrated in a small area. Likewise, when using racks that clamp the fork, never pull sideways (and be careful not to lose your balance, which can cause this) when removing the bike because this can break the dropouts (fork tips). Always fully loosen the fork mount and then lift until the fork is clear of the mount before removing the bike. And with tall-section carbon wheels, you may need to use a different, longer strap. Use caution to protect the rim with pipe insulation or something that keeps the strap from compressing or chafing the rim as it gets jostled when you're driving.
Cleaning and Washing It's fine to wash carbon bicycles and components like you would any other using warm soapy water and a hose. Yet, as with any bike, it's never a good idea to aim the water directly at bearings (headsets, cranks, etc) because that can wash the grease out. For especially greasy components any bike-safe degreaser, which we can supply, will work fine and won't effect the carbon in any way. After cleaning, rinsing and drying, we recommend adding a little protection with a bike polish or spray wax (Pledge furniture polish works nicely and you simply spray it on and wipe it off).
Touching up the Paint Stone dings, chips and scratches aren't usually anything to worry about in terms of strength and longevity. Most carbon bicycles feature clear-coat finishes, which are easy to touch up. All you need is a little clear nail polish or model paint and you can cover the spot to seal it and restore the finish. Another possible risk is throwing the chain during shifting, either onto the bottom bracket or off the large chainring. This won't damage anything as long as you stop pedaling right away, though we would recommend letting us check the shifting since a properly adjusted bicycle shouldn't toss the chain. Should the chain nick or chip the finish, simply clean the area and touch it up to protect it. Tip: to protect the bottom bracket area from dropped chains, you can put a strip of electrical tape on it.
Chain "Suck" Chain suck is mostly a mountain-bike glitch that results from worn, dry, muddy or damaged parts, and from bad shifting technique, too. What happens is the chain gets grabbed and "sucked" up, jamming between the chainring and chainstay. You can generate a lot of force with your legs and if you don't realize what's going on and you just keep pedaling, the chain can "saw" into the frame and damage it (even steel frames). So, if you experience chain suck on a ride, stop pedaling immediately, and avoid riding in the gears that are causing it. When you get home, clean or adjust or replace the faulty parts to prevent it from happening again. Or bring your bike in and let us diagnose and repair the problem for you. If you did pedal and mar your frame, we should also take a look and make sure it's okay.
Repainting Should your bike need repainting at some point, it must be done correctly and carefully. We recommend using a professional bicycle painter who understands carbon frames. Caution must be used because any paint stripper that will remove polyurethane/urethane paint will also damage the epoxy resin matrix holding your carbon together. So do not use paint stripper. Also, you must not sandblast, beadblast or blast with any other media to remove the paint because that can remove structural material ruining the frameset. If you do decide to repaint, the correct approach is careful hand sanding to remove the decals and scuff the topcoat to receive the new finish. Finally, do not bake a carbon frame at over 150 degrees Fahrenheit (baking is often used in painting metal frames) as that will damage it, too.
CARE OF BICYCLES AND COMPONENTS
Frames and Forks It's impossible to bend carbon frames, so never try to stretch or compress the frame to change the spacing. It's set to accept modern wheels perfectly and will only flex by about 2mm. By forcing it you can structurally damage the frame or dropouts. Also, it may seem obvious but we've seen just about everything and would like to emphasize that you should never drill holes in your frame for any reason, no matter how logical it may seem at the time. If you're planning on doing so please contact us first so we can listen and explain.
When installing bottom bracket cups do not use thread adhesives as this can secure them too tightly in the frame and cause damage to the threads when it's time to replace them. Instead, we recommend greasing the cups.
When cutting a new fork to size, we recommend using a carbon-specific hacksaw blade. These blades essentially "sand" through the carbon instead of tearing through with teeth, which tend to fray and splinter the fibers in the composite. It’s also good practice to wrap the carbon with tape before cutting, though this is less necessary when using a carbon-specific blade.
Of course, the old saying measure twice, cut once is never more appropriate than when sizing forks. Cutting a fork too short can completely ruin it, so be sure to read the manual to understand how to fit it and how to measure it according to the specific instructions for your type of fork. Keep in mind that the fork, headset, insert, spacers and stem act as a system so you need to consider all these things when sizing and installing a fork to get it right. If you're in doubt at all, letting us size and install the fork for you is strongly recommended and well worth the reasonable cost. When installed correctly the front end of your bicycle will be an integral part of your bike that fits the frame and you perfectly, and that requires only routine maintenance, too.
When installing a headset, grease the insides and faces of the head tube where the cups go in, as well as the crown race seat of the fork. Cups should be professionally installed by us with a headset press, a special tool for the job that maintains correct alignment of the head cups during assembly.
Carbon forks usually require special longer brake nuts that come with the forks. Standards brake nuts usually won't work, so be sure to get and use the correct one (they often come with new forks or we can sell you one).
Crashed or damaged frames and forks that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or those that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by us or another qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the components should be replaced or repaired.
Wheels and Rims Safety first! If your wheels have carbon rims be sure to get and use the specific type of brake pads recommended by the manufacturer. Also, use only plastic tire levers when fixing flats because metal ones can damage carbon rims unless you're careful.
Speaking of flats, you probably know not to ride on any flat tire, but on a carbon rim, it's even more important and could ruin the wheel, especially on a clincher carbon rim, which has tall sidewalls that could delaminate should they contact the pavement for very long. Of course, as with all wheels, be sure to check tire inflation before every ride. Failing to do this can lead to rim damage, as it would on an aluminum rim, should you hit a pothole or rock and bottom out the soft tire.
For sew-up (tubular) carbon wheels, on which you must glue the tires, be sure to prepare the rims by scuffing them lightly with steel wool to clean and slightly abrade them. Then glue the tires on. Keep in mind that, like any sew-up, if the tire remains on the rim too long, it can be difficult to remove, and on carbon wheels this can result in damage to the rim when you try to take the tire off and some carbon comes with it. If you know you're not going to ride your carbon wheels for a long time, such as over the winter, it's best to take the precaution of removing the tires so this can't happen.
Spokes can loosen on any wheel and should be checked regularly for optimum tension. Carbon wheels often have tall rims that are very stiff and this can make it difficult to tell that the spokes are loose because the wheel may barely go out of true. If you just keep riding, the spoke tension can go down to nearly nothing compromising the strength and ruining the ride. So, be sure to check tension regularly by squeezing the spokes, or if you're not sure, having us check it for you. A good practice is to have any wheel checked for tension at least yearly, or more if you ride a lot. It's a good idea to have the bearings inspected at the same time, too, and serviced as needed.
When securing a bicycle with carbon wheels on a car rack be sure not to use straps that can chafe and cut into the rim. With tall rims you may need to replace the stock strap with a longer one. Just be sure to pad the rim against damage.
One thing that won't harm carbon rims/wheels is hanging a bicycle from them on hooks for storage. They can easily support the weight of the bike.
Crashed or damaged wheels that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or those that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by us or another qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the components should be replaced or repaired.
Handlebars, Stems, Bar-Ends and Aero Clip-ons Make certain that the diameter of the fork and stem, and the stem and handlebar match. And make sure that all surfaces are smooth and free of any defects, dirt, burs or sharp edges that could cause damage. Also make sure the components are free of oil, grease and grime. Tip: The one exception is that it's okay to put a small amount of grease on the handlebar center section, which will help the stem's clamping surface spread the force around the bar.
A common practice with metal handlebars and stems is to snug them up and then test to see if they're tight enough by tugging or twisting. Never do this with carbon bars and stems as twisting and tugging can turn the parts, scratching and/or scoring them leading to failure. Always align the components correctly first, then tighten fully to the recommend torque specification. And, if you need to change the adjustment, be sure to fully loosen and open the clamp before moving the part.
When mounting brake and shift levers, inspect them carefully, especially at the clamps to ensure that there are no burs or sharp edges that can cut into the carbon handlebars. As we mentioned with the bars themselves, be sure not to twist the levers to move them into place because that can score and cut the carbon causing failure. Always loosen the clamps fully, reposition the lever, align it carefully and then tighten it. Tip: You can also disassemble the lever clamp and slide it alone into place on the handlebars and then install the lever. To align drop-bar levers rest a straightedge against the bottom portion of the handlebar. The tip of the brake lever should just touch the straightedge, or you can move the lever up as much as 10mm if you like a higher lever position.
Tip: If you need to size your carbon handlebars (and the manual okays it), we recommend using a carbon-specific hacksaw blade. These blades essentially "sand" through the carbon instead of tearing through with teeth, which tend to fray and splinter the fibers in the composite. It’s also good practice to wrap the carbon with tape before cutting, though this is less necessary when using a carbon-specific blade.
Bar-ends and Aero Clip-ons The owner's manual with your handlebar will say whether it is compatible with bar-ends or aero clip-on handlebars. If it is, be sure to then select bar-ends or clip-ons designed for carbon handlebars. One important precaution is to never use anything that uses a clamp with a slot that's not in line with the handlebar hole/clamp and a bolt which isn't perpendicular to the slot. This arrangement causes the clamp to close unevenly driving one edge into the handlebar, which will crack it. You can test for this by eyeballing the slot and the bolt. An imaginary line should exactly bisect the clamp and slot. If you're not sure, place your finger inside the clamp and snug the bolt feeling for any deformation of the clamp as it closes. It must remain completely round as it's tightened in order to be safe.
Crashed or damaged handlebars and stems that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or those that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by us or another qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the components should be replaced or repaired.
Seatposts Do not use regular grease on any carbon seatposts or carbon seat tubes. Tip: There is a new carbon grease we can supply that includes small particles so it protects and grips, however, unless you have this special product, you shouldn't use any grease.
Make certain that the diameter of the frame and the seatpost match. And make sure that the surface of the frame's seat tube is smooth and free of any defects, dirt, burs or sharp edges, especially at the clamp, which could damage the seatpost. Also make sure it's free of oil, grease and grime.
When inserting seatposts, always insert them just enough to achieve your proper seat height. Putting them too low and then having to raise them could result in scratching and damaging them.
Tip: Never put a scratch in a carbon seatpost to mark it, either! Doing so can ruin the seatpost and cause it to break. Instead mark your seat height by wrapping a piece of electrical tape around it right at the frame.
Before tightening seatposts, pay particular attention to the orientation of the seat collar. When using a carbon post, it’s very important to have the seat collar slot on the opposite side of the seat tube slot. This helps disperse the loads better, reducing the possibility of pinching and crushing the seatpost, as well as reducing frame damage. Diagonally slotted seat collars are highly recommended.
When tightening, never overtighten the seatpost clamp on the frame or you can ruin the seatpost and even damage the frame. First, check your owner's manual for the frame or clamp, follow the instructions, and tighten the seatpost to the required specifications with your torque wrench.
Crashed or damaged seatposts that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or those that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by us or another qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the component should be replaced or repaired.
Cranks and Bottom Brackets When installing pedals check carefully that there are no burs or defects on the pedal axle seats (the areas that rest against the crankarms) that could cut, gouge or scratch the crankarms during installation. Also, never install washers between the pedals and the arms as this can increase stress on the crankarms.
Be certain to check your front derailleur regularly. It's possible to catch your pants in it and bend it, or you might try to fine-tune it and change its motion slightly. Either of these things could endanger your crankarm by allowing the front derailleur cage to move too far to the outside when you've shifted onto your large chainring. When this is the case, the derailleur cage may gently brush against the inside of the right crankarm with each pedal revolution. You might not even feel or hear this, yet with only a few rides, this could lead to serious damage to your carbon crankarm.
Though it's unlikely to do any serious crankarm damage, use care when walking your bicycle up curbs and over similar obstacles, too. If a crankarm is at 6 o'clock, you could strike the end of the arm against the cement and mar it.
A common shifting/drivetrain glitch on mountain bikes, and even sometimes on road bikes is called "chain suck." It results from worn, dry, muddy or damaged parts, and from bad shifting technique, too. What happens is the chain gets grabbed and "sucked" up, jamming between the chainring and chainstay. You can generate a lot of force with your legs and if you don't realize what's going on and you just keep pedaling, the chain can saw into the frame and damage it (even steel frames). If you experience chain suck on a ride, stop pedaling immediately, and avoid riding in the gears that are causing it. When you get home, clean or adjust or replace the faulty parts to prevent it from happening again. Or bring your bike in and let us diagnose and repair the problem for you. If you did pedal and mar your frame, we should also take a look and make sure it's okay.
When installing bottom brackets, we recommend greasing the threads and following the manufacturer's recommended torque setting. Caution: do not use thread adhesives (Loctite) on the bottom bracket threads! Loctited cups require additional torque to remove, which may exceed the torque limit on the frame's bottom bracket and damage it.
As with all other components, crashed or damaged crankarms that show signs of damage, such as cracks, chips, loose fibers or fatigue marks, or crankarms that you even suspect were damaged, should be taken out of use immediately and inspected by us or another qualified expert to ensure they're still safe. If evidence of damage is found, the crankarm should be replaced.
We would like to thank these companies for help with this article (in alphabetical order): Bontrager, Calfee Design, Campagnolo, Easton, FSA, Hed Cycling Products, Kestrel, Orbea, Park Tool, Reynolds Composites, Shimano, Specialized and Trek.
Since a few weeks I’m following several blogs and discussions about using the Wii controller (aka. Wiimote) for triggering/manipulating software/hardware devices and Processing applications in particular. This post is supposed to be a rough anthology of related links and resources that could become useful for further attempts to integrate the bluetooth and infrared based controller into design and interaction concepts.
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Over torquing is probably the biggest cause of cracks that we see in carbon products. And, it's much harder to determine the torque on a bolt by feel with carbon than it is with aluminum. The best way to avoid problems and do the job correctly is by getting a torque wrench and always using it and the company's torque chart when working on your bike. 
